Nature has created these difficult to live and to surpass awfully high super structures with definite purpose. Let us ponder. Billions of years ago the lonely SUN started spitting molten mass around, that cooled to form the planets in our Solar System. One such fireball ultimately became our Earth.

The surface cooling was probably irregular and in stages, creating layers and causing cracks in the outer skin. This divided the crust into huge plate like masses. These floating masses collided with further cooling and often overlapped, forming big heaps and pitches. The earth’s rotation around its axis could not stay uniform because of these moving crusts and started to wobble. The wobbling shook the surface harder particularly along the equatorial circumference, pressing these plates and pushing the remaining softer sections to RISE, BEND and TWIST as necessitated by the in motion forces. Thus, forming the deeps (Oceans) plateaus and mountains. The mountains rose higher at places where the Earth needed extra weight and shrank deeper to shed weight in order to balance its wobble for a very very smooth jerk-free rotation, which we feel today. It took billions of years to become today’s cool and livable Earth. The atmosphere developed at later stages.

The above transformation can be easily demonstrated by two simple examples.

1. Take a big kettle and put in some liquid and some solid items randomly and rotate it. The uneven weight at some points will make it wobble. Soon the motion will adjust the solids by shifting and sliding, resulting in smooth even rotation.
2. More than 50% car drivers know that the old and often new tires wobble at certain speeds and have to be balance by adding extra weights at one or two points on the wheel for a smooth drive.

Keen observation of the Earth’s circumference (40’000km long) would show that there is only one long mountainous chain (Himalaya / Karakoram) in the world that has all the highest 8000 meter peaks grouped within a few 100 kilometers. These ranges could be the extra massive counter weight that our “Creator” added in this spot to smooth Earth’s rotation.

Geographic analysis has proved that mountains are not just heaps of mud, but have very deep rocky roots in the Earth’s crust in proportion to height. They literally represent WEDGES pressed in to act as motion stabilizers.

Mankind appreciates with awe and feels the Excitement in climbing them. Man has devised techniques to utilize these barren masses for mining, cultivation, wild life hunting, tourism, sports and loves to explore its landscapes, snow clad peaks, deep valleys and serene views.

We all must thank the ultimate Almighty for stabilizing Earth, otherwise we would all be longing for a jerk-free sleep today.

Mount Everest, Nepal

Peak name: Mount Everest, Survey Mark XV, Sagarmatha (Nepali), Chomolungma (Tibetian), Zhumulangma (Chinese)
Height: 8848m (29029 ft.)
Location: On Nepal and Tibet border in Himalayan Range, Asia.
Mount Everest attracts climbers worldwide. The novices are more enthusiastic to experience the thrill of the first climb. The more experienced ones improve their feats and guide the new comers. A greater number come to Everest as it is far safer to climb as compared to K2 or Nanga Parbat. Still there are risky zones and allied dangers posed by climatic conditions, winds, altitude sickness above 8000m. The climbing season starts before the monsoons. The wind speeds are less so reduce resultant risks.
Mountaineering on the highest peak is very costly. The experienced guides charge heavy fees for a turnaround climb. The Nepal government has fixed permit fee of $US 25’000 per person. It is a good revenue source. The Everest has been summited by about 3’000 individuals. Although less difficult still about 200 persons died, mostly while descending. Retrieving bodies from death zone is simply impossible. They stay there where they fall and are often visible from climbing routes.

K-2, the Savage Mountain (nickname), Pakistan

Height: Peak elevation from sea level 28’251 ft. (8611 m.)
Location: One of the many peaks of the Karakoram Range, on the border of China and Pakistan, (Taxkorgan Tajik county China and liberated Kashmir, Pakistan.
Topography: K-2 is ranked 22nd by Topography Province.
K-2, Highest in Pakistan and 2nd Highest in the World.

K2 offers a beautiful serene sight to look at. This extremely picturesque peak rises single over 3000 m above the valley bottom at its base. The relief in comparison to height is unique. K2 is placed for away from travel routes and inhabited areas. It gained attention of climbers only in early 20th century. K2 is consistently steep pyramid on almost all sides, offering very difficult access. This truth is unwelcome by climbers, who call it the “Savage Mountain”, forgetting totally the artistic scenery and visual appeal of the ranges. What else could they expect at an elevation of 8611 m. besides rock, ice and glaciers. The savagery is highlighted as the fatality rate is 2nd highest among 8000 m peaks after Annapurna being first. One of four climbers dies from those who reach K2 Summits. So far all attempts to climb this mammoth peak in winter have failed.

Kangchenjunga, Nepal – 8586m

Third highest mountain among 8000ers

Height: 8586m (28169 ft) above sea level.

Location: between North Sikkim district, India and Taplejung of Nepal.

Features: Kangchenjunga means “5 treasures of Snows” because it has 5 peaks, 4 over 8450m. Also representing 5 repositories of God, i.e. Gold, Silver, Gems, Grain and Holy Books.

The three peaks (Main, Central and South) are in Sikkim, India while the other two are totally in Nepal. The World Wild Life fund has protected sanctuaries in both districts to protect wild life particularly red panda and snow animals etc.

Kangchenjunga was considered the highest mountain until 1952. The British Trigonometric Survey in 1849 concluded that peak XV-later named Mount Everest is the highest while Kangchenjunga came at third position after Mount K2.

Joe Brown and George Band of British expedition first summited on 25th May 1955. Sikkim’s hold the summit Sacred, so almost all successful summiteers stop a few feet short of highest point to honor their sacred beliefs.

Many great ridges originate from the massive Kangchenjunga running in all directions representing a giant “X”. Many lower peaks abound in surrounding area like Siniolchu (6888m / 22,600 ft), Jannu (7710m / 25294ft), Kabru North (7338m / 24075ft), Kabru South (7316m / 24002ft), Rathong Peak (6678m / 21910ft), Kangchenjunga North (7741m / 25397ft), Twins, Tent Peak and Jongsungla (6120m / 20080ft).

Photo by ferran_latorre

Kangchenjunga is famous for beautiful scenery created by various peak and valleys and picturesque views with “White Wall” background. Situated in remote area and difficult trekking, it is still little explored. India permits very few trekkers each year. The Goecha La Pass is located in front of the South East Face. The tourists appreciate this area along with Green Lake Basin and Zemu Glacier on the North East side.

Lhotse, Nepal – 8516m

Fourth highest peak among 8000ers

Height Lhotse Main Peak: 8516m

Height Lhotse Middle (East) Peak: 8414m

Height Lhotse Shar: 8383m

Location: at border between Tibet, China and Khumbu, Nepal.

Lhotse is known for its resemblance to Mount Everest. It has the smallest topographic prominence among eight-thousanders; rising only 610m (2000ft) above South Col. The South face has the steepest rise of 3.5 km in only 2.25 km of horizontal distance. This very difficult South face is noted for fatalities and only a few ascents. Climbers favor North West face.

Climbing

The International Himalayan Expedition, led by Norman Dyhrenfurth made an early attempt in 1955, accompanied by 200 local porters. Failing on Lhotse Shar they attempted Lhotse from North West face. At 8100m altitude they were beaten by severe storms and low temperatures. However, they mapped Everest area and made first ascents on smaller peaks in Khumbu region.

Photo by Jeremiah Cunningham

Lhotse was first climbed on 19th May 1956 by Swiss team of Ernest Reiss and Fritz Luchsihnger. Lhotse Shar was first ascended on 12th May 1979 by Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter of Austria. Lhotse Middle (East) remained unclimbed till 23th May 2001, when Eugeny Vinogradsky from Russian expedition summited along with team members.

Makalu, Nepal – 8485m

Fifth highest amongst eight-thousanders

Location: Border of Nepal and China – 22 km from Mount Everest

Main Features: Makalu (Nepali), Makaru (Chinese) four sided pyramid shaped isolated peak.

Its two subsidiary peaks Kangchungtse or Makalu II (7678m / 25190 ft) is 3 km from main summit. A narrow saddle plateau (7200m) connects it with Chomo Lonzo (7804m / 25604 ft).

Makalu is one of the harder, most difficult to climb mountains in the world. Its steep valley and knife-edged ridges are dangerous to trek. Technical rock / ice climbing is involved at final peak stages.

Photo by Deetrak

Climbing

An American team of Sierra Club, led by William Siri, attempted in 1954 from South West Ridge but, were turned back at 7100m (23300 ft) by a long chain of storms. The subsidiary peaks Makalu II and Chomo Lonzo were ascended in 1954. A French expedition climbed to Makalu on 15th May 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy by the North Face and the North West Ridge.

Successful Ascends

• 1970 – Japanese expedition led by Y. Ozaki and A. Tanaka succeeded.
• 1971 – The technical West Pillar Route was climbed by French men B. Mellet and Y. Seigneur.
• 1980 – Second ascend of West Pillar achieved by team led by John Roskelley without sherpa support or bottled oxygen.
• 1981 – Polish climber Jersey Kukuczka successfully climbed solo, without bottled oxygen from a new route North West Side.
• 1988 – A French man Marc Batard climbed in one day (after setting camps) via West Buttress.
• 2006 – French Jean Christophe Lafaille disappeared in a first winter attempt.
• 2009 – First successful winter climb was made by Italian Simons Moro and Kazakh Denis Urubko.

Cho Oyu, Nepal – 8201m

Sixth highest among eight-thousanders

Location: On border between China and Nepal – 20 km west from Mount Everest.

Cho Oyu / Qowowuyag (Nepali) and Zhuo Aoyou Shan (Chinese).

First attempted by British Joint Himalayan Committee team and failed at an ice cliff at 6650m / 21820 ft. Finally successfully climbed on 19th October 1954 from North West Ridge by Herbert Tichy of Austrian expedition.
Cho Oyu lies next to a glaciated pass, the main trading route of Tibetans and Khumbu Sherpas. This easy route and moderate slopes attract the immature climbers. The guides consider it easiest eight-thousand meter peak.

Photo by John Town

Dhaulagiri, Nepal – 8167m

Seventh highest among eight-thousanders

Location:  North Central Nepal in Dhawalagiri Zone.

Dhaulagiri or “White Mountain” is easily accessible from Pokhara, an important town and tourist resort adjacent to the deep Kali Gandaki Gorge. For thirty years it was considered to be the highest peak before shifting this title to Kanchenjunga. It lies next to Annapurna on Kali Gandaki River, facing each other. The South and West faces rise steeply four thousand meters from base with equally dangerous drops causing fetal accidents to climbers.

Photo by Eric Lon

Climbing

The first successful climb was achieved on 13th May 1960 by Kurt Diemberger from North East Ridge route. This route was discovered by an Austrian expedition with “Air Surveillance”. Unfortunately the fixed-wing air craft crashed and was abandoned in “Hidden Valley” in the North. Since then numerous successful ascends have been made from all sides.

Manaslu, Nepal – 8163m

Eight highest among eight-thousanders

Location: Mansiri Himal or Nepalese Himalayas

Manaslu or Kutang means “Mountain of Spirit”. 60 Km away from Annapurna, the long ridges and valley glaciers offer easy access from various directions ending in a peak that suddenly towers steeply above its surroundings. A serenic feature when observed from a distance. Manaslu was first climbed on 9th May 1956 by a Japanese expedition led by Toshio

Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu.

Manaslu Region:

The trekking route crosses the Manaslu pass following the ancient salt trading route along Budhi Gandaki river and side trekking the huge peaks above 6500m.

Photo by epicuro14

Manaslu region still retains most of its ethnic traites with ancient culture still very visible. Nubri and Tsum tribes are maintaining their independent habitats and religious Buddhist lifestyle. The tourists are attracted to the region to see the mountainous landscaping and for acclimatization for trekking higher peaks. This sub-tropical region has diversified wild life, including many endangered species of animals. Snow leopards and Pandas are preserved here. Twenty different types of forests, including the blue pines, are found here.

Nanga Parbat, Pakistan – 8126m

Ninth highest among eight-thousanders

Location: South of Indus River, Gilgit – Baltistan in Pakistan.
Nanga Parbat or the “Naked Mountain” was known to be one of the deadliest or “Killer “Mountain” of the eight-thousanders but now has since been tamed, using better climbing techniques.

Main Features: Nanga Parbat offers one of the most picturesque views to observers. Its steep rises and contoured valleys are an appealing contrast. The comparatively gentle slopped Rakhiot face rises 7000m (22966 ft) from Indus river valley to summit in only 27 km of horizontal distance, a prominent elevation gain. Nanga Parbat has the highest face in the world, the Rupal face, rising 4600m (15000 ft) above its base.

Photo by Max Loxton

The main ridge or core is all Ice and Rock. Nanga Parbat has many subsidiary peaks above 7000m on its three main faces, Diamir face, Rakhiot and Rupal. The prominent being the north peak 7816m. A glacier lake called Latbo is found at 4100m near Rupal Face and a shepard’s village.

Climbing

During early attempts over 30 climbers had died. Nanga Parbat was first climbed successfully on 3rd July 1953 by an Austrian climber Hermann Buhl of German-Austrian expedition. This feat of Buhl is very dramatic. His companions had turned back while he continued determined and summited at 7 pm, a very hard and time consuming effort. On descend darkness caught him and he had to bivouac standing upright on a narrow ledge. Though completely exhausted, but managed his balance in a fortunate calm night and reached high camp at 7 pm the next day. A forty hour return trip, without oxygen. He is the only man in mountaineering history, to first ascend an 8000m peak alone.

Annapurna I, Nepal – 8091m

Tenth highest among eight-thousanders

Location: Himalayan Ranges – Nepal

Annapurna peak is situated in Himalayan Range east of a valley cut by Kali Gandaki River, separating it from Dhaulagiri massif. In local languages it remains Goddess of Harvest or of Fertility.

The surrounding low trek, easily accessible area is fairly populated. This makes it a popular trekking field where all facilities of guest houses, diverse scenery, high mounts and low lying villages exist. The King Mahendra Trust for nature conservation protects an area of about 7700 sq. km. to conserve natural wild life and safe trekking. However, Annapurna peaks are world’s most dangerous mountains to climb. It still claims fatality rate of 40%.

Photo by littleboat5

Expeditions

Annapurna I was first climbed on 3rd June 1950 by a French expedition headed by Maurice Herzog and others. This highest climb record was broken three years later when Mount Everest was surpassed.

A British expedition climbed from the South Face of Annapurna in 1970 led by Don Whillans. While descending, one team member Ian Clough was killed by falling ice pillar.

The American women’s Himalayan expedition led by Arlene Blum was the first all women team’s successful attempt on 15th October 1978.

On 3rd February 1987 Annapurna I was first summited in winter by Polish team by Jersy KuKuczka and Artur Hajzer.

The first solo climb by Slovenian, Tomaz Humar was made in October 2007.

The successful attempts since 2005 total 103 while 56 lives were lost by Avalanches and otherwise, killing some renowned climbers also.

Trekking Routes

There are 3 major routes.

1. The Johnson and Muktinath
2. The Annapurna Sanctuary Route
3. Annapurna Circuit

The Pokhara Town is usually the starting point for short treks also.

Gasherbrum I (KV), Pakistan – 8080m

Eleventh highest among eight-thousanders

Location: Karakoram Range of Himalayas – Border of Pakistan and China
Gasherbrum I or “Beautiful Mountain” is also known to be the “Hidden Peak”, being very remotely placed.

Photo by ferran_latorre (HAPPY NEW YEAR)

It was summited by an American expedition on 5th July 1958 by Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman.

Various Ascends

• 1936: A French expedition reaches only 6900m (22630 ft.)
• 1958: An American team succeeds to summit.
• 1975: Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler reach summit from North West Route.
• 1977-1982: Successful attempts made by various teams from different routes.
• 1982: First woman reaches summit. French Marie Jose Valencot. Her husband Sylvain Saudan performs first sky descent from 8000m peak to base camp.
• 1985: Benoit Chamoux made a solo summiting.

Broad Peak (KIII), Pakistan – 8051m

Twelfth highest among eight-thousanders

Location: Border of Pakistan and China – 8km from K2

The Broad Peak is part of Gasherbrum massif. Originally termed K3, but closer look measured the peak about one and a half kilometer long. Thus the name Broad Peak originated.

Climbing

Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reach the fore peak (8051m) without supplemental oxygen and porters on 9th June 1957.

Photo by Dr. Shahid-Burewala Trekkerz

In July 2007, an Austrian team climbed Broad Peak to bring the corpse, of Markus Kronthaler who died a year earlier, from eight thousand meters.

Simone Moro made two winter attempts on Broad Peak but failed.

All five eight thousand meter peaks in Pakistan still remain unsurpassed in winter.

In 1983 Krystyna Palmowska from Poland was the first woman summiter.

Gasherbrum II (KIV), Pakistan – 8034m

Thirteenth highest among eight-thousanders

Location: Border of Pakistan and China in Karakoram Range

The Gasherbrum II relatively offers smoother ascent which has less hazards like ice falls and Avalanches. The climbers prefer it as initial starter. A permit is required for climbing costing around US$ 2000 per person.

Photo by toufeeque

Climbing

First climbed on 8th July 1956 by Fritz Moravee from Austria.

• 1975: French group made second summit with death of one member.
• 1975: Polish women’s team ascended lead by Wanda Rutkiewicz.
• 1979: Sixth and seventh ascends by Chilean and German expeditions.
• 1982: Reinhold Messner tops with two Pakistani’s Nazir Sabir and Sher Khan.
• 1983: Jerzy Kukuczka climbed from East Ridge without oxygen.
• 1984: Messner and Hans Kammerlander traverse Gasherbrum I and II without returning to base camp.
• 1984: First ski descent by French team led by Daniel Croisot from 7800m.
• 2005: Turkish team with two women scaled Gasherbrum II on 22nd July.
• 2007: three Italians led by Karl Unterkircher, topped from new way on North face.

Shisha Pangma, Tibet – 8027m

Fourteenth highest among eight-thousanders

Location: Tibet

Shisha Pangma means either “Place of Saint” or “Sherpa Women” in different local languages. It is entirely in Tibet near the Nepali border. The Jugal Himal and Langtang Himal run along the Tibet / Nepal border. This peak has less dramatic relief as compared to major Himalayan peaks. This is probably the easiest of all 8000m peaks. Vehicle travel is possible up to Base Camp at 5000m (16400 ft). The steeper South West face is difficult to climb as a long span of ascent is on a 50o slope. The Chinese and Tibetan authorities have restrictions on foreign visitors resulting in less trekking opportunities.

Photo by richdrogpa

Climbing

Shisha Pangma was summited from North face on 2nd May 1964 by a Chinese expedition led by Xu Jing.

• 1982: From British route on South West Face a British team led by Doug Scott reached top.
• 2004: Jean Christophe Lafaille (France) climbed solo from South West Face on 11th December, claiming it to be a winter acsent.
• 2005: first clear winter ascent by Piotr Morawski (Poland) and Simone Moro (Italy).

Peak name: Mount Everest, Survey Mark XV, Sagarmatha (Nepali), Chomolungma (Tibetian), Zhumulangma (Chinese)

Height: 8848m (29029 ft.)

Location: On Nepal and Tibet border in Himalayan Range, Asia.

Mount Everest attracts climbers worldwide. The novices are more enthusiastic to experience the thrill of the first climb. The more experienced ones improve their feats and guide the new comers. A greater number come to Everest as it is far safer to climb as compared to K2 or Nanga Parbat. Still there are risky zones and allied dangers posed by climatic conditions, winds, altitude sickness above 8000m. The climbing season starts before the monsoons, when the wind speeds are less so reduce resultant risks.

Photo by bigtrip2005

Mountaineering on the highest peak is very costly. The experienced guides charge heavy fees for a turnaround climb. The Nepal government has fixed permit fee of US$ 25’000 per person. It is a good revenue source. The Everest has been summited by about 3’000 individuals so far Although less difficult still about 200 persons died, mostly while descending. Retrieving bodies from death zone is simply impossible. They stay there where they fall and are often visible from climbing routes.

The Great Trigonometric Survey (GTS)

A survey of India was conducted to establish the highest mountain. They determined in 1856 the height of Mount Everest as 29’002 ft. (8840m.). In 2005, another accurate survey fixed the rock top level at 29’017 ft. The ice and snow topping was 3.5m. The final height totaled 29’029 ft. (8848m).

The GTS started in 1808 from Southern India. The team was equipped with 500 kg theodolites, carried by 12 men each. They reached Himalayas by 1830. Nepal refused entry for political reasons and did not budge. British resumed survey in 1847 from border locations 240 km away. Till then Mount Kangchenjunga was considered the highest. The British Surveyor General noted a higher peak 230km away. He marked it peak XV. This find started a series of detailed observations, months long calculations and verifications. In 1852, an Indian mathematician Radhanath Sikdar, was first to declare peak XV highest in the World. After more study, the British also confirmed in 1856 that peak XV was highest.

For comparative analysis, MOUNT MAUNA KEA in Hawaii and MOUNT McKINLEY in Alaska are taller than Everest when measured from sea bed. Mount Mauna Kea totals 10200m, but it is only 4205m above sea level.

Naming the Peak XV

The British surveyors became prejudiced as they were not allowed to enter Nepal. So they ignored Nepali and Tibetan local names, although against the rules of GTS. After much debating, it was proposed to name the peak XV after Colonel Sir George Everest, as Mount Everest. The Royal Geographic Society officially adapted this name in 1865.

Everest Climbing Routes – Mainly Two

•    The Southeast Ridge from Nepal, technically easy and mostly preferred.
•    The Northern Ridge from Tibet, China, seldom used.

Southeast Ridge

This route was discovered by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing in 1953. A Base Camp was setup at 5380m (17700 ft) on South side. Air travelers fly to Lukla (2860m) from Kathmandu and trek to Base Camp in 6 / 8 days. The equipments are carried by Yaks or porters. The climbers acclimatize for a few days while Sherpas set ropes across dangerous Khumbu Icefalls. Seracs, Crevices and shifting ice blocks have killed many sherpas. Climbers move before dawn to reach Lhotse face Advance Base Camp (ABC) at 6500m. They cross near Nuptse Base via the narrow passage or “Nuptse Corner” or “Valley of Silence”. From ABC, fixed ropes are used to reach Camp III (7470m.) A quick trot of 500m to Camp IV, crossing “Geneva Spur” and “Yellow Band”, (inter-layered marble e.t.c). On the South Col at 7920m (26000ft.) or “Death Zone”.

Now the climbers have just a few days to attempt summit bid as soon the weather is favorable or descend to Base Camp. From Camp IV, climbers move at mid-night so as to reach summit by mid day. On the way they pass “Balcony (8400m)” for brief rest and to see serene view of peaks and valleys around. Further up they cross rock steps with waist deep snow and serious avalanche hazards. At 8750m South Summit is indicated by a Dome of Ice. Then “Cornice Traverse” where snow clings between rocks. One wrong step on this dangerous portion, to the right means a fall of 3000m on Kangshung face while one step to left means 2400m down the Southwest face. The final obstacle is the 12 meter rock wall or Hillary step at 8760m. Ahead is easy climb to the Summit. Climbers have about half an hour stay to enjoy success before commencing a tough descend.

Northeast Ridge

The Northeast Ridge route starts on North side Tibet. Rongbuk Glacier is traversed to reach Base Camp at 5180m. Climbers ascend Glacier up to base of Changtse for Camp II at 6100m. Camp III (ABC) is at North Col 6500m. Camp IV at 7010m is reached by fixed ropes. Onwards ascends the rocky ridge to Camp V at 7775m. The route crosses the North Face to base of “Yellow Band” and reach Camp VI at 8230m (27000 ft.). The next difficult traverses are First Step 27890-28000 ft, Second Step 28140-28300 ft (includes climbing by metal “Chinese Ladder” left in 1975) and Third Step 28510-28870 ft. From here 50 degree snow slope takes to the final Summit top.

Early Climbing History

• In 1921, George Mallory explored Everest base, discovered northern approach making a non-serious attempt  climbed up to 7000m.
• In 1922, George Finch reached 8320m using bottled oxygen.
• In 1924, Mallory and Bruce attempted but failed by weather.
• In 1924, again Norton and Somervell climbed 8558m in good weather.
• On 8th June 1924, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine went via North Col. – and Never Returned.
• In 1952, Swiss expedition led by Edouard Wyss – Dunant reached Khumbu Icefall and ascended South Col. To 7986m.
• In 1953, British Expedition led by John Hunt. Tom Bourbillon and Charles Evans were just 100m short of Summit, but returned exhausted on 26th May, 1953. Two days later Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay (Sherpa) reached Summit at 11:30 am on 29th May 1953. British Queen Elizabeth II immediately made him Knight in the Order of the British Empire (KBE) and Tenzing was awarded George Medal by UK. John Hunt was made a life Peer in Britain.

First attempt without Oxygen

On 8th May 1978, Reinhold Messner (Italy) and Peter Habeler (Austria) Summited successfully, without oxygen. On 20th August, 1980 Messner went solo, without help and oxygen for the first time via the more difficult Northwest route successfully.

Climbing Mt. Everest without (bottled) oxygen. Sometime between 1 and 2 in the afternoon on May 8, 1978, Messner and Peter Habeler achieved what was believed to be impossible — the first ascent of Mt. Everest

First Winter Ascend

In 1980, Polish team led by Andrzej Zawada, Leszek Cichy, and Krzysztof Wielicki became the first to reach Summit during the winter season.

Disaster 1996

In 1996 season 15 climbers died while descending. Eight of them died on 11th May alone. Reportedly oxygen level in the air fell suddenly by 14% on that day. This disaster was given worldwide coverage by all media.

Rescue Controversy

In 2006, a climber got stranded 450m below Summit, under an over hung rock. No one attempted his rescue. When descending, people are tired low on oxygen and lack strength for pull up. Any rescue attempting physically unfit could end in more deaths. Sometime later an Australian climber Lincoln Hall was rescued by ascending four climbers. But they had to give up their Summit attempt. Therefore, fully equipped Sherpa Rescue teams are essential, for retrieving the injured and disabled.

2008 Summer Olympic Torch Summit

China has recently constructed a l30 km long road from its Tingri County to Base Camp on Northeast route. China also routed 2008 Olympic Torch Relay over the Everest, on way to Beijing.

Death Zone

The term death zone applies to altitudes higher than 8000m (26246 ft). The potential risks are increased. Oxygen level in air is reduced by 30%. The storms are stronger exposing climbers to death by slipping and falling. The temperatures can fall suddenly resulting in frost bites. The high winds could last days causing survival problems and make retreat difficult. An injured person cannot walk, impossible to be carried by climbers or by helicopter. The left behind 150 dead bodies so far, cannot be retrieved and can be seen lying frozen below along the climbing routes.

Using Bottled Oxygen

Above 8000m use of Oxygen is considered a standard. Climbers need mental alertness in low oxygen air, low temperatures and tough weathers. The critics claim that oxygen encourages immature climbers to take chances risking their own and others lives. On the day of disaster, of 11th May 1996, there were 34 climbers jammed at Hillary Step (8760m) that delayed all.

Thefts and other Crimes

Reports of theft of supplies during climbing are repeating and could be life threatening. Michael Kolas in his book, High Crimes, details gambling and prostitution by unethical guides and Sherpa are taking place enroute to Summit, including frauds in sale of oxygen bottles.

Records of Successful Ultimate Climbers

• The youngest Summiter-15 year old Nepali Sherpa girl, Ming Kipa.
• The youngest non-Nepali 17 year old Malibu resident Johnny Strange (2009)
• Apa Sherpa has climbed maximum, 19 times till May 2009
• The oldest climber 76 years old Min Bahadur Sherchan (25th May 2009)
• The fastest ascend in 2007, Austrian Christian Stangl, from Camp III to Summit, 10 km distance in 16 hours and 42 minutes.
• The fastest ascend over Southeast Ridge, 17 km by a French Marc Batard in 22 hours and 30 minutes (in 1988).
• The fastest ascend over Southeast Ridge, 17 km by a Nepali Pemba Dorjie Sherpa in 8 hours and 10 minutes, using oxygen (2004).

Animal Life at high altitude

Climbers have spotted a black jumping Spider at about 7000m in Crevices feeding on probably stray insects pushed up by high winds. Birds seen include Chough and Bar-headed, Goose probably living on food and even corpses left behind.

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K-2, the Savage Mountain (Nickname)Height: Peak elevation from sea level 28’251 ft. (8611 m.)

Location: One of the many peaks of the Karakorum Range, on the border of China and Pakistan, (Taxkorgan Tajik county China and liberated Kashmir, Pakistan).

Topography: K-2 is ranked 22nd by Topography Prominence.

K2, Highest in Pakistan and 2nd Highest in the World.

K2 offers a beautiful serene sight to look at. This extremely picturesque peak rises single over 3000 m above the valley bottom at its base. The relief in comparison to height is unique. K2 is placed far away from travel routes and inhabited areas. It gained attention of climbers only in early 20th century. K2 is consistently steep pyramid on almost all sides, offering very difficult access.

This truth is unwelcome by climbers, who call it the “Savage Mountain”, forgetting totally the artistic scenery and visual appeal of the ranges. What else could they expect at an elevation of 8611 m. besides rock, ice and glaciers. The savagery is highlighted as the fatality rate is 2nd highest among 8000 m peaks after Annapurna being first. One of four climbers dies from those who reach K2 Summit. So far all attempts to climb this mammoth peak in winter have failed.

The Name K2

The great Trigonometric Survey (GTS) was conducted in 1856 by Thomas Montgomerie. In his first survey of Karakoram from mount Haramukh, about 210 Km South, he labeled two highest peaks as K1 and K2 and lower ones K3, K4 and K5. In GTS, preference is given to local existing names when defining / recording. The peaks K1 to K5 were already known as Masherbrum, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I, while K2 had no local name being located so remote and invisible from Askole, the last village. Only a feeble glimpse is possible from Baltoro Glacier.

Casual names attributed to K2 were scarcely used including Chogori (Big Mountain), Qogir (Chinese) and Lamba Pahar (Urdu, tall mountain). Therefore, the survey mark K2, steadily became known and adopted locally in the Balti language also.

The Italian climber Fosco Maraini, when summited Gasherbrum IV, described K2 as “bare bones”, all rock, ice, storm and deep abyss but nothing human.

Early Climbing Attempts

In 1892 British Expedition led by Martin Conway reached ‘Concordia’ on Baltoro Glacier. The first serious attempt to climb K2 was made in 1902 by Oscar Eckenstein and Aleister Crowley from North Ridge. He could reach only 6500m after 5 costly attempts in the record longest duration of 68 days, of which only 8 were clear days.

The next expedition in 1909 by Luigi Amedeo, Duke of Abruzzi, reached 6250m on South East Spur (now termed Abruzzi spur or Ridge) with extreme difficulty. He failed to find a better alternative route and declared that K2 cannot be climbed at all.

Charles Houston, an American, attempted in 1938. He surveyed and concluded that Abruzzi spur was the best route and reached about 8000m. Extreme Bad weather forced him back. Next year Fritz Wiessner was only 200m. Short when disaster struck and four climbers disappeared. Charles Houston again attempted K2 in 1953. A strong storm pinned the team at 7800m for ten days. In a desperate retreat attempt, a mass fall occurred. Fortunately Pete Schoening managed to save the entire team except Art Gilkey, who got killed. This team effort and courage is a milestone in mountaineering history.

Successful Attempts

An Italian expedition finally ascended K2 on 31st July 1954. Ardito Desio led his team of Lino Lacedelli, Achille compagnoni and a Pakistani Colonel Muhammmed Atta Ullah. Walter Bonatti and porter Mahdi proved vital for success, carrying oxygen to 8100 m. On 9th August 1977, Italian Ichiro Yoshizawa and a Pakistani Ashraf Aman summited via Abruzzi route using 1500 porters.

In 1978 an American, James Whittaker succeeded using new route, the long corniced North East Ridge. The team Louis Reichardt, John RosKelley, Rick Ridgeway and Jim Wickwire who suffered overnight bivouac, at highest level, 150m below summit. In 1982, a Japanese Mountaineering Association team ascended from North Ridge on Chinese side. The team was Naoe Sakashita, Hiroshi Yoshino and Yukihiro Yanagisawa reached the top, but Yanagisawa died when descending. Four more team members topped summit the next day.

A Czech climber Josef Rakoncaj climbed K2 Twice. Firstly, in 1983 with Italians led by Francesco Santon and Secondly on 5th July 1986 as member of Agostino da Polenza’s expedition.

Recent Attempts

K2 is attracting more and more mountaineering enthusiasts. Since 2008, 299 people climbed, dominating the K2 tough challenges. In the same period 2600 individuals summited the popular but far easier mount Everest. With improvement of equipment and facilities, climbing is becoming easier but the climbing challenge seekers would stay with and dominate K2, preferably.

Bottled Oxygen

The climbers used oxygen very scarcely in the past. Since 2004 the trend to carry bottled oxygen has increased tremendously. Over 50% summiters used it. Still acclimatization is a must for high climb and to avoid high altitude sickness like ‘Hape’ and ‘Hace’.

Women Mountaineers

The first woman to reach K2 summit was Wanda Rutkiewicz of Poland in 1986. The next four successful women however, died while descending. A rumor of Mountain curse spread among women, but brave ladies broke this curse by successful summiting namely, in 2004 Edurne Pasaban, in 2006 Nives Meroi (Italy) and Yuka Komatsu (Japan), in 2007 Eun-Sun Oh, in 2008 Cecilie SKog and Mi-Sun Go became the 11th woman to reach the summit and descend safely.

Routes to the K2 Summit and difficulties

Climbing explorers have experimented all the routes available to discover the easiest, but K2 is not prepared to concede fully. Some common difficulties exist on all routes. Oxygen becomes scarce by 30% at the peak causing fatigue. The mountain steeps require a committed effort when ascending or descending. These steeps also make retreat in storms risky. The extreme storms continue for days and weeks at times without break. This causes supplies shortage, forced retreats, accidents and deaths mostly on down way. All major routes are on Pakistan side, where base camp is located.

Abruzzi Spur

This route now is most common. This southeast Ridge was first used in 1909. It begins at 5000m. altitude. Climbers follow rock ribs, ice fields; climb two tough spots to “House’s Chimney” and “Black Pyramid”. Then difficult skidy slopes are crossed to reach the “shoulder”. The last obstacle is the narrow “Bottleneck” or an ice cliff in east of summit. In 2008 a section of ice cliff snapped, broke the rope, killing climbers.

North Ridge

This is on the Chinese side opposite Abruzzi Spur. Few climbers choose this route as hazardous Shaksgam River has to be crossed. It ascends a tough long steep rock ridge that lands on the mountain “Camp IV, “Eagle’sNest” at 7900m. It crosses a dangerous hanging glacier and then to the summit.

North East Ridge - Long and difficult route joins to the upper part of Abruzzi route, used in 1978.

West Ridge – Used in 1981South west Pillar or “Magic Line” First climbed in 1986 by Polish-Slovak trio. The only next successful climb was by Italian Jordi Corominas, despite many other attempts.

South Face or “Polish Line”- In 1986, Jerzy Kukuczka and Tadeusz Piotrowski summited on this route. This dangerous avalanche route is also called “Suicidal Route” as no one else even attempted it.

Northwest Face – climbed in 1990

Northwest Ridge – (finishing on North Ridge) Climbed in 1991

South – Southeast Spur or “Cesen route”

A safer alternative as it avoids the obstacle “Black Pyramid” It ends on Abruzzi Spur. First climber in 1994

West Face – (difficult at high altitude)
Russian team summited successfully in 2007

External Readings
K2 breaking news: Wilco found alive!
Tragic Toll After Chaos on Mountain
Tales of Chaos and Survival on K2

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